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Say Cheese: Whitening without frightening

perfect-smile-flickr-karissa5White teeth do a lot of talking. They talk about their owner; they say ‘Hey, she’s healthy, she’s neither a smoker nor a heroin addict, and she practices good hygiene.’ Furthermore they say…..‘She’s happy.’

It may seem as though I’m obsessed with the ability of cosmetic products to make us look happier. Maybe you’d rather look younger. Fine, white teeth will also make you look younger. Our teeth naturally yellow with age, thus whiter teeth take us back to our prime. One of the easiest ways, in fact, to take a couple years off the face is simply to whiten your teeth. Doesn’t matter if your teeth are crooked, if you have a hideous underbite, or are missing a few teeth altogether. Whiten them up, and reap the compliments.

A few of you out there have greyish teeth, rather than yellow stained teeth. This is often due to tetracycline poisoning (from an antibiotic you took as a child or your mother took when she was pregnant with you). Don’t waste your money on tooth whiteners; the staining is from within, and if you’d like a great white smile (a dear friend of mine is very shy about her greyish smile) then chat with a dentist about veneers. It could change your life.

If, however, like many of us, your dingy smile is due to the accumulative effects of coffee, red wine and blueberry pie, then whitening your teeth is easy as…eating blueberry pie. I get compliments on my teeth quite often, by women. (Men will say, ‘Nice smile’…but women are more specific. They say, ‘You have really white teeth’) They ask what I do. Do I get them professionally whitened?

That’s not my secret. While I think a professional whitening job can immediately improve a woman’s self esteem, it’s expensive (up to $500) and the ingredients are a little iffy for my taste. Speaking of taste–ewwww…. would I ever want to swallow that stuff? I don’t even use toothpaste with flouride! And skip the drugstore whitening kits, they’re full of gross chemicals, too…unless you just have to have results this weekend.

The best thing you could do for your smile and your health is to make a decision to whiten your teeth every single time you brush, using a non toxic method.

Here are a couple of my favorite teeth whitening tricks:

1. Use food grade peroxide to swish and spit with. (It won’t stick to your teeth to whiten them, but if you brush your teeth while it’s in your mouth, you’ll get an oxygenated tingling and foaming action that gently lifts stains).

2. Use baking soda as toothpaste. It’s cheap, it works, it whitens. (It absorbs stains and scrubs them away) Put a drop or two of food grade peppermint or spearmint essential oil in a cute one cup container of baking soda. Tasty! It’s a natural abrasive, and the feeling of clean after you brush (dip a wet toothbrush into the powder) is the cleanest you will ever feel. Very similar to getting a professional cleaning. Do it for two weeks and you’ll notice a whiter smile. Then do it for the rest of your life because it works and it’s natural.

3. If you hate home made stuff, try my favorite powdered packaged toothpaste, Eco Dent Extra Brite (I like powders. Gels and pastes disappear too quickly, and whitening is about getting rid of stains. Peroxide bleaches, but powders SCRUB. This company makes a couple formulas; I like the whitening one, because they added peroxide! You just flip the cap, and sprinkle a modest amount on your wet toothbrush, and brush (If you wet the toothbrush after, you wash away powder). While I’m not a fan of the foaming agent sodium lauryl sulfate (the oceans need less foam, not more), this toothpaste is fluoride free, it whitens, and it’s natural.

eco-dent-toothpasteExtraBrite Tooth Whitener, Fluoride Free helps brighten teeth naturally while providing low abrasive action, natural effervescence and natural cleaners. Premium Oral Care Products. Mint without Fluoride. polishes with Less Abrasion. Baking Soda Toothpowder. Naturally Effervescent. Better than Pastes! Natural Effervescence and Peroxide make it better! Less Abrasive. Helps Prevent Plaque. For a great smile, brush with Extra-Brite twice daily for 2-3 weeks. Then maintain your new smile with Eco-Dent Daily Care. 100% Natural Ingredients.

Suggested Use: Apply small amount to moistened toothbrush. Brush as usual. Not recommended for children under 12.

Ingredients: Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda), Tartanic Acid, Calcium Carbonate, Dicalcium Phosphate, Magnesium Carbonate, Calcium Peroxide, Sea Salt, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (Coconut Derived), Hydrated Silica, Natural Flavoring Oils, Guar Gum, and Myrrh Extract.

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I Scream, You Scream: Fabulous Eye Cream

sleepy-face-flckr-miss-s-smithSome mornings I wake up looking like I’ve been abducted by aliens.  My face is puffy, my lips are dry, and my skin is coarse.  Worst of all: Thousands upon thousands of fine lines emanate from the corners of my eyes, and the skin beneath my eyes is a crepey mess.   These are the ugly physical  manifestations of a dehydrated body. Yes, we should all drink more water.  But don’t talk to me about that when I’m staring at the Mohave Desert in the mirror.  Give me solace.

Give me eye cream, immediately.

A good eye cream can make you feel better instantly. It IMMEDIATELY quenches your skin.  I find if I can just lay my hands on good eye cream on a bad morning, that the day begins to look up within five minutes. The crepey-ness is gone, the thousands of new crow’s feet retreat, leaving me with the one set of laugh lines I’ve earned.

100percent-eye-creamMy eye skin plumps up, the sagging skin firms, and the whole shebang is taken care of with just a little cream! My current favorite eye cream is 100% Pure’s Acai Eye Cream. It’s clean, it’s green. It works.  100PercentPure.com makes two great eye creams: One formula relies primarily on coffee, to rev up the eye, and the other uses the antioxidant (and anti aging) power of concentrated acai (a groovy south american fruit) to restore youth.

My advice?  Don’t wait for an alien abduction.  I’m a HUGE fan of eye cream; use it DAY AND NIGHT (it’s rich and thick and essential and also preps your skin for that concealer I know you’re wearing!) and I try as many different ones as I can.  You’ll know a good eye cream by its power to make you feel better as soon as you massage it in. Take that, aliens!

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At Long Lash: A Wearable, Green Mascara

I’ve talked about compromise before. When a bride says she wants green makeup, I talk to her about what works, and what doesn’t. Green mascara (up til now) has largely been a failure. The very ingredients which make mascara stick to our lashes and not smudge are the same ingredients that we’re trying to avoid, namely pthalates, petrochemicals, and even coal tar.

The bride’s reaction is typical, “I want waterproof, smudgeproof, mascara. I plan to cry.”

I totally understand. I carry waterproof mascara (DiorShow Waterproof is most famous, though, really, all waterproof mascara is the same…nothing’s going to lengthen, thicken or curl, once it’s waterproof. I’ve tried at least 15 major brands…waterproofing ingredients make the formula precise, across the board.

Well, I try NOT to cry on a daily basis, but I still don’t want my mascara to smudge left and right, up and down on my face. I keep trying green mascara formulas that claim “smudge resistant”, and I ultimately look like a heroin addict by noon.

If you have shorter lashes, this isn’t going to be a problem for you. So go out already, and buy yourself some clean mascara. Of all places on your face, what goes on your lips and eyes should be as squeaky clean as possible. We’re talking orifices, here, ladies. Keep them happy, keep them green.

If your lashes are longer, however, you’re going to have trouble finding clean mascara that works for you simply because those “sticky” ingredients aren’t there; and every time you close your eyes you are undoubtedly transferring product under your eyes.

A couple tips:

1. After you apply under-eye concealer– you ARE using concealer, aren’t you– the under-eye will be slightly moist, which I prefer to overpowdered, BUT that moisture can make your mascara smudge when you blink. Roll just a touch of face powder under each eye, and THEN apply mascara.

2. Do NOT apply mascara to your bottom lashes. You just don’t need it. It closes up the eye, smudges, and and invariably looks “done”. If you MUST define your bottom lashes (although I can’t imagine why you’d want to, they don’t contribute to sexy eyes at all), then save it for evening, when the smudging will take on a charming, tipsy allure.

3. Apply mascara to the tops of your top lashes first, then fan the lashes upward from the bottom. You get more curled lashes this way, and you also get the look of two coats of mascara without the clumping.

Finally, EXPERIMENT with mascara formulas. What works for me may not work for you, and vice versa.

Here’s a new product that works for me right now: Tarte’s Health Couture Lash Hugger eco-friendly mascara in black. (Sephora carries it). I’ve been wearing this mascara regularly for three weeks, during which I’ve cried (at least three times–what? Who doesn’t cry at least once a week?), I’ve sweated, and I’ve had something in my eye which made me rub it. These are my results: Lash Hugger doesn’t smudge/run unless your face is wet, or you rub your eyes. And that’s totally fine with me. I EXPECT mascara to smudge if I’m crying. I EXPECT it to smudge if I rub my eyes. And I fully EXPECT it to stay put if I’m just minding my own business. This one does.

Lash Hugger Natural Mascara:
Water, Alcohol, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax, Cera Carnauba, Hydrogenated Stearyl Olive Esters, Stearic Acid, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Shellac, Triethanolamine, Candelilla Cera, Acacia Senegal Gum, Aminomethyl Propanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorophenesin, Iron Oxides (CI 77499).

Now I am by no means a fan of every above listed ingredient! I DEMAND completely clean products that WORK. And I’m still looking. I told you this was going to be about compromise. Tarte’s mascara tube is post consumer recycled aluminum, and the formula contains no parabens, or other evil fillers. I don’t like Triethanolamine (who would?) and the idea of putting shellac on my lashes is not a happy one, so I’m STILL LOOKING.

The next one I’ll be trying is a mascara made from sugar, by Suncoat. You know my philosophy about being able to eat anything that goes on my face!

The following mascaras did NOT work for me, but they are MUCH cleaner than Lash Hugger, and you may want to give them a go:

Dr. Hauschka Volumizing Mascara & Intermezzo Mascara

100% Pure Mascara (made with blueberries)

With any luck, we’ll all be winking clean in the new year!

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Eyelids: The shutters to your soul

This is going to seem like a strange posting to some; so be it. I have a love/hate relationship with eyeshadow. I am convinced that colored eyeshadow is utterly unnecessary, and I’m still debating it’s desirability. If eyes are the windows to the soul, then eyelids are the shutters. And do we really need to paint our shutters regularly? Wouldn’t it better to work on our windows?

Let me be absolutely clear: I don’t want your eyelids to be red, purple or pink, as is their natural proclivity. Because our eyelids are thin skin, they are somewhat translucent. So the capillaries that feed blood to that skin often peek through, lending our lids a tinge of zombie-like zest. And I am by no means in favor of zombie eyes, or eyes that make you look depressed, hungover, or as though you haven’t slept in millenia. (You may already be aware of my penchant for under eye concealer for the same reason)

After “doing” thousands upon thousands of eyes, here’s what I’ve whittled it down to:

The Vermeer:

On a “nude” day, your eyelids should closely resemble your natural skin color, but a shade lighter. That means, if you’re naturally a fair skinned girl, you’re going to reach for a light creme colored eyeshadow, and sweep it across the area from your brow bone to the base of your eyelashes. You want your lids to match your brow bone (the area under the arches of brows), and brow ridge (that area between your eyebrows, above your nose). If you’re a deep, honey brown, your everyday color is going to be a gorgeous golden honey eyeshadow which matches your brow bone and brow ridge. If you’re a beautiful beige, you’ll find yourself a light beige eyeshadow to brighten and even out your royal beigeness. Get it? That’s one color, everyday, to freshen your eyes.

I call this “The Vermeer Look”. Vermeer (think Girl With the Pearl Earring) was this fabulous Dutch painter whose subjects had the most beautiful eyelids in all of art history. The purity of the skin (as emphasized by that fantastic Northern light) was apparent in every portrait, and lent an innocence, a FRESHNESS to his subjects. Of course, Vermeer’s subjects aren’t wearing eyeliner or mascara, either, but you may find that amount of austerity to be too virginal for your taste. Just remember if your lids look pure, the windows of your soul won’t look so dirty.

The Urban Sophisticate:

You’re a lawyer, business woman or corporate slave, and you need to project confident sophistication. You’re a career gal, and you want to be taken seriously! Use your nude color all over, then reach for a deeper warm neutral tone. If you’re beige, it’s probably going to be a “tan” color. Either apply it just in the lid crease, for added dimension, or apply it on the lower lid. Your nude color will act as a kind of base, remember, it goes up to your brows, and the slightly deeper color will add dimension and depth. If you go for this step, you definitely need mascara, and a fine eyeliner is fab.

Dinner With Andre (or Andrea) :

Eyeshadow Disclaimer: I love a nude eye with back eyeliner and black mascara and red lips as a classic look for a little black dress kind of night.

Of course, another sultry option is the ever popular smoky eye……But if it’s not that kind of night…….

Times Square Special:

It’s New Year’s Eve. Or it’s just “Eve”, and you want to party: You’re prepping for a night on the town. THIS is what eyeshadow was invented for!! THIS is the time to have a party in your bathroom all by yourself!!

Play with color and with sparkle (I hate shimmer…it often looks FROSTY, and since it’s not 1986 anymore–thank goodness–frost has no place on your face. One exception: warm, highlighting shimmer on cheekbones). As a general rule, keep the lightest colors on the brow bone or inner eye (be they light aqua, gold, silver, pale purple, etc.). Keep your darkest colors either in the outer crease or on the lid itself. An easy way to do color is to “build it”, starting with the darkest color at the lashline, and getting lighter as you go up.

(I’d use a maximum of three complementary colors if you’re not shooting for Drag Queen Hostess.  Practice playing with your eyes at midnight when you DON’T have a party to go to. Do each eye differently, experiment, have fun, then wash your face and go to bed.)

Less pressure = better results.

More practice = better results.

Less makeup = better results.

~Save the fancy shutters for Mardi Gras, and let your own light shine through the windows to your soul every day.~

(And don’t forget–if you’re going to use eyeshadow, practice safe eyeshadow! Go paraben free, petrochemical free, toxin free. If you prefer your shadows pressed (though in somewhat limited shades), you have good options with Dr. Hauschka, Josie Maran, Eco Nvey, Lagona, Eco Bella, and 100% Pure to name a few. If you want to really go wild, check out the loose and highly pigmented mineral powders available. I love my fun collection of Larenim matte and super sparkly eyeshadows in colors like Cosmos and 24 carat–bonus: I mix them with clear nail polish to make a rainbow of dazzling nail colors!)

photos courtesy of flickr’s powerbooktrance, neverletmego, realnaughtyangel, and vagamundos

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Taking off the Mask: Why tinted moisturizer is the new foundation

As soon as people learn I’m a makeup artist, they invariably weave their burning questions into our conversation, even if we’re only talking about the weather.  “Seems we’re in for a bit of a warm spell…  ..speaking of warm spells, what kind of foundation should I be wearing?”

I’m lucky I’m not a doctor, because my answer is always unoriginal.  I’d like to say that I carefully evaluate each and every person’s skin type and make a qualitative analysis of each line, pore, and wrinkle…but the truth is–I think EVERYONE should wear tinted moisturizer with sunscreen instead of foundation.

I know, that seems rather general, doesn’t it?  I do use “foundation” (a full coverage liquid or mineral) on my brides or models when doing event makeup, but unless you are on a movie set or being professionally photographed, I would never recommend foundation for everyday. It’s simply unnecessary.  The point of makeup should be to enhance your natural features, to make your individual beauty shine, not to reinvent the wheel.

The use of foundation, or “base” is as old as mud; women throughout the centuries have endeavored to cover everything up (and sometimes shave everything off) and paint it on again.  It’s a way of creating a completely new persona, and Hollywood relied heavily on this idea in the 30s and 40s when creating sultry starlets out of freshly scrubbed girls-next-door.  There’s nothing wrong with wanting to start from scratch, but before you camouflage your features in a thick shade of beige, take a look at your freshly scrubbed face.  What is it that you really want to change about your visage?  Here are the typical complaints:

Redness/blotchiness around the mouth & nose, unevenness/blotchiness on the cheeks, freckles/age spots, under eye circles, blemishes

As you can see, the majority of concerns have to do with evenness of skin tone.  The good news is that tinted moisturizer (a lightweight lotion with a hint of color, and spf) will even out your complexion without smothering it. Your skin will GLOW, rather than look matte or cakey.  Your skin will BREATHE, rather than gasping for air, and your skin will IMPROVE in both appearance and texture.

If tinted moisturizer alone doesn’t address problem areas, then all you have to do is use a small amount of concealer (under the eyes, on a blemish or age spot, around the nose).  There’s simply no need to conceal your entire face!

Here’s my favorite everyday 5 Step Fast Face:

1. tinted moisturizer all over

2. concealer under the eyes

3. creme blush on cheeks

4. lip gloss

5. mascara

Your face is your calling card.  Do you really want to be the kind of person who is unrecongnizable without their makeup?  Embrace your face.  Save the foundation for the Big Ball, or your cousin’s wedding.  You don’t need it at 8 in the morning, and you certainly don’t need it in the office.

Special HIPPIE note: If you’re the kind of person who NEVER wears makeup, considering making tinted moisturizer your new best friend.  You won’t look like you’re wearing makeup, because it’s really not makeup–but your skin will look and feel fantastic, and you’ll have the added protection of at least spf 15, everyday.

Here are some of my favorites:

100% Pure fruit pigmented

tinted moistuizer

Suki tinted moisturizer

Juice Beauty tinted moisturizer

mask photo courtesy of flickr’s Flamed

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Nailing It: Non-toxic, custom blendable nail polish

I am of two opinions when it comes to painting my nails–While I desperately love to witness an interesting color on my toes, peeking out from under the sheets in the morning,  I hate seeing any color whatsoever on my hands….I’m sure this is mostly due to the fact that I work with my hands, and cannot abide the haggard appearance of chipped nail polish.   The last thing I have time for is touching up my nails all day.  I’d sooner wear gloves to cover up the offending fingers.

That said, I’ve had a devil of a time finding good eco-nail polish in the last few years, so my toe polish collection has been somewhat limited to a vampy red Chanel polish, and some cheap silver polish I found at the drugstore to match my uber groovy Barbarellaesque silver summer sandals.

A couple years ago I was excited about a nail polish line called Honeybee, a water based pigment brand without all the nasty chemicals.  One night I smugly painted my toes in a beautiful watermelon red and headed to a party, where I awaited compliments.  The first thing I heard was, “Oh my God!  What happened to your feet?”

Oops.  It was a warm evening, I suppose, and perhaps the temperature of my feet was particularly high (though my feet rarely sweat); when I looked down, I saw that my toes appeared to be bleeding profusely.  The water-based nail polish was not intended for swarthy atmospheres, apparently,  and had melted and spread across my feet like an ice-cream cone on a hot cement sidewalk.  Gross.  So, rather than move to Alaska, where my new fangled eco-polish might fare better, I simply stopped wearing it.  Gradually, my feet grew bored, and I sought solace in toxic polish.  I mean, what’s a little chemical waste between toes, right?  Who says formaldahyde is just for dead people?

My toxic toe days are over, now.  Peacekeepers has a beautiful collection of non toxic nail polishes, now available at Whole Foods, and the bonus?  The color stays put!  I’ve written about this company before; they donate ALL their profits (post tax) to women’s organizations around the world.  I’m a huge fan of their “lip paints” (lipsticks), which are completely green, moisture rich and gorgeous, with names like “Paint Me Compassionate”, “Paint Me Wise”, “Paint Me Empowered” (one of my favorites–a 1920’s dark wine red).   Peacekeepers nail polishes are toulene-free, formaldahyde-free, and phthalates-free.

This is HUGE… believe it or not, your body absorbs every toxin you put on it–the CDC (Center for Disease Control) did a study in 2000, testing women for toxins commonly found in cosmetics.  What they found should alarm you:  Every toxin used in mainstream makeup was found in some level in all the women.  Highest, though, and particularly in women of childbearing age, were the toxins used specifically in mainstream nail polish. The chemicals are known agents of birth defects, and women who are pregnant or nursing or considering becoming pregnant were urged not to use any products containing these ingredients.

I’m surprised that 8 years has passed since that study, and yet there are only 4 or 5 non toxic nail polish products on the open market (and two of them are only available online).  It’s shameful and upsetting, and we must do better.

Enough of my rant- let’s talk toes!  I have an eco-makeup kit full of some beautiful new sparkly and matte mineral pigment powders by Larenim.   I bought the Bottom/Top Clear Coat by Peacekeepers, and have found painterly passion in mixing my OWN shades!!  Want your toes to sparkle?  Sprinkle a little mineral sparkle onto a sheet of paper, dip your brush, swipe it on!! Want to paint your nails black for the evening, but can’t find an eco-black nail polish?  Make your own!! And rather than dump black pigment into the little bottle and shaking (although, if you always wear black, that’s not a bad idea), sprinkle the pigment onto paper, and dip your brush in, or drizzle a bit of the clear coat onto the paper and mix (this is great if you paint quickly).  The reason I love this technique is that I am not bound by the bottle.  I have ONE bottle of nailpolish instead of an army of them, and I can make whatever color I like by mixing my mineral pigments.  A note: wipe your brush off before re-inserting it into the bottle if you want it to stay utterly clear.

Now that you know, you can set your nails free.  Free from poison, free from delusion.  Seek out a better solution or just go naked!

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The Primer Suspect

I get a LOT of emails from women who use mineral makeup.  The letters fall into two camps:  the women who love it, and the women who hate it.   I often feel as though I’m standing in the neutral territory (a Switzerland of makeup) between two warring factions of females who are either singing praises or screaming invectives.  As you can imagine, I enjoy chatting with the happy ones, but I feel more ethically bound to investigate the people making so much cranky noise.

That said, I feel as though I can offer at least ONE tip that may turn the tide for those women who hate the effects of bismuth oxychloride (an irritant which is present in many popular mineral products), and those dry skinned women who hate looking like the desert floor an hour after grinding minerals into their visage.

It’s called PRIMER. To understand why primer is necessary, imagine painting a blank bedroom wall.  If your wall is porous, it’s going to absorb more paint than other walls.  Not only will it take more paint to get the even look you desire, but that paint is going to penetrate the very surface of the wall, clogging it.  Making your wall prone to breaking out.  Imagine now that your bedroom wall is full of hairline cracks.  The more paint you slather on it, the more apparent those cracks become.  As the paint sets in, the cracks seem to widen and flake, making your wall look old and decrepit.

What do we do with the bedroom wall, then?  We use a coat of PRIMER, people!!  Primer is exactly what is sounds like:  It primes the surface of the area that we are preparing to paint. For porous skin, primer acts as a barrier, preventing makeup from clogging your pores.  For dry/mature skin, a primer seals the cracks so the makeup will lie smoothly on the surface of the skin.

The question is, can you find a primer that is good for your skin?  Why bother using mineral makeup for it’s natural benefits if you’re just going to use a disgusting, chemical-laden primer?  It would akin to using an eco-paint on your wall, but putting a fresh coat of gasoline on it first!  So, if you’re a mineral user, and ready to try primer, read the ingredients first.  Don’t use parabens, petrochemicals, benzenes, phthalates or ureas on your skin.  Ever.  Period.

If you have trouble finding a clean primer, use ALOE VERA. You’ll find a million different uses for aloe vera, including hair gel, burn salve, and even internal cleansing.  That’s right, people eat it.  And you know my rule:  If it can go in your belly, it can go on your face! You can find pure aloe vera gel (in various concentrates) in your natural food store.  You can find it in the drug store, too–just make sure they haven’t added anything unsavory).

Aloe Vera makes a splendid primer; it’s a lightweight gel that dries down quickly.  Apply it allover the face, give it 30 seconds to dry, then apply your mineral foundation.  If you’d like an “Official Primer”, with added benefits, here’s the cleanest I’ve found on the market:

Mod.skin Face Sculpt Serum Excalibur with DMAE & Blue Green Algae: water, aloe juice, DMAE (a really cool amino acid), vegetable glycerin, blue green algae extract, vitamin e, rosemary, carbomer, phenoxyethanol (a preservative–not my favorite, but better than most)

So, all you unhappy Mineral-ites out there, before you chuck a week’s pay into the trash, buy a bottle of aloe vera for 99 cents, and give it a go!

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Betty Davis Eyes: Classic Eyeliner = Modern Beauty

Is there anything sexier than a pair of smoldering eyes, half-veiled by a gorgeous set of dark, full lashes? The “come hither” lashline and accompanying eyeliner have been used to charm the opposite sex with great success since ancient times, and the look of brazen wontoness is coming back in full force this fall. We’re being teased by models with two inches of black liner smeared around the circumference of their eyes as they saunter down the catwalks in Edwardian menswear. It’s adorably gaunt, and while I adore a smoky eye as much as the next girl, what I really long for is a return of the more confidently sexy eye…that clean, classic, dark sweep of black that so neatly frames the upper lashline. It’s a look that is less raw sex, and more ….gourmet sensuality.

On that note, let’s talk about a classic formula: The liquid liner. I’ve gotta sing about a new favorite–It’s a liquid eyeliner which goes on wet, dries down quickly, and stays put. It’s also blacker than black which is great for a classic (top only) lashline, and is drop dead gorgeous when paired with a set of false lashes. (100% human hair, of course)

Zuzu Raven liquid eyeliner is vegan, cruelty free, fragrance free, and WATER RESISTANT!! Here’s where I get excited–It does not contain parabens or petrochemicals. In fact, the ingredients of Zuzu liquid eyeliner (while not organic) are as clean as I’ve EVER seen in a water resistant version of ANYTHING. Here they are: Aqua, Sorbitol, Cetyl Alcohol, Iron Oxides, Mica, Jojoba Seed Oil, Bentonite, Bisabolol, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Lecithin, Eyebright, Titanium Dioxide, Cellulose Gum, Hectorite, and Potassium Sorbate.

For those shy gals who are wary of liquid eyeliners, I know, I know—the application can be iffy, even for a woman with the steady hands of a surgeon. The problem with liquid liners has always been two fold; first, the brush is difficult to control and you wind up with an uneven line and second, the fluid dries so quickly that by the time you realize your mistake, you’ve got a permanent map of Indonesia scrawled across your eyelid.

So here’s a trick: Use your OWN eyeliner brush.

You simply need a short, fine, SYNTHETIC brush with which to create your most perfect lashline. Dip it directly into the Zuzu pot, wipe the side of the brush against the lip of the pot to remove excess ink, and make small dashes along the lashline. DON’T attempt to draw a perfectly straight line–YOUR EYE IS NOT A STRAIGHT LINE!! Make little dashes at the base of the lashline (where lashes meet skin) starting from the outside of the eye and allow the dashes to become finer and finer as you reach the inner corner of your eye. Make a mistake? Keep a wet q-tip on hand for quickie fixes.

Remember, it’s not a race. You’ve got plenty of time. Black eyeliner will never look fabulous at 9 o’clock on a Monday morning when you’re running late for work. So save it for 5 o’clock on a Thursday evening, when you’re running late for cocktails. If you’ve done a good job, you shouldn’t get compliments on your eyeliner. You should get compliments on your eyes.

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No laughing matter: Lines, lines, everywhere lines.

I have laugh lines and I have pout lines. Thankfully I’ve done more laughing than pouting, but both lines are getting deeper, spreading!, and generally running amok across my once youthful visage. Why is it that I’m so proud of the deep lines in my palm (makes for easy palm reading) but not willing to accept them in my face?

I don’t care to discuss my Freudian hangups at the moment, I just want to get rid of the evidence. While I’ve never considered Botox, (injecting poison into my face is somewhat antithetical to my mission as a green makeup artist–not to mention my fear of needles), and I’m not interested in wearing a face-lift wig (see illustration), I do work in the beauty industry and am acutely aware that the older I get, the more desperate I’ll undoubtedly become. I’m trying to head those fears off at the pass by taking care of the small stuff while I still can. Cue the anti-aging creams, wrinkle serums, lifting lotions and miracle elixirs.

Skincare, I find, is the one area in which green cosmetic companies seem to perform well. How hard can it be to hydrate my face without poisoning me or making me break out? (worst case scenario, just throw a bucket of water at me) The cleaner the skincare line, the better results on this front. But when we begin talking about firming, lifting, minimizing, and brightening, we’re talking about serious stuff. Such potions are never cheap, and while the green versions may not hurt you (they tend to leave the poison out), they may not do anything at all.

And unlike many consumers who are willing to give a product a full 30 days before expecting results, I want to look better immediately. I haven’t got all day, and neither do my clients. If it’s supposed to firm, I want to FEEL IT FIRMING, if it’s supposed to lift, then it had better START LIFTING NOW, and if it’s supposed to plump with antioxidants, I’d better feel like Violet FREAKIN’ Beauregarde, rolling out of the chocolate factory as a giant blueberry.

Here are a few products I’ve tried, and my immediate impressions of them:

Aubrey Organic Lumessence Rejuvenating Eye Cream: A clean product which feels more like a serum than a cream. I used it for 2 weeks, am and pm. I found hydration to be only minimal, (and I count on things like hydration around the eyes), I experienced no measurable lightening of my morning under-eye circles, and also didn’t feel any firming whatsoever.

Earth Science A/B Hydroxy Acid Night Rejuvenator: This product claims 10% alpha and beta acids, has no parabens, but does contain dimethicone, polyprepolymer-2, and nylon-12. For hydroxy acids, I expect a hearty prickling/stinging sensation, letting me know that it’s burning off my dead skin. Wow, that sounds gross. Unfortunately, I felt as though I had only used a good toner. (ie, slightly refreshing tingle). After two weeks of use, I was not rejuvenated in the least. My pores weren’t smaller, my skin wasn’t smoother or brighter, and my lines were not diminished in the slightest.

Earth Science Beta Ginseng Cellagen Renewal Serum: Won some awards in the UK trade show, but failed to do for me what it claimed. Did take down redness in my husbands face, (he’s a willing guinea pig), but it didn’t do the plumping or firming it’s supposed to do. 25% hylauronic acid, (which helps the skin retain moisture), but perhaps I need a serum with 75%. Still dry as the desert.

Zia 15-Minute Face Lift: Love this stuff! I’d originally gotten this product for use with bridal clients, or their mothers on the Big Day. While it does have long term effects, it’s meant to make the biggest difference when used before applying makeup. The tightening/lifting lasts for up to 8 hours. (and no, your face doesn’t fall like a smashed pumpkin at midnight, it’s just less “pulled”) The product uses clay (I love clay’s beneficial long term properties) with which you make a little mask. Comes with a nice brush for painting it on, then you lie down and let your face begin pulsing. It really does what it says it does. Immediately.

Burt’s Bees Repair Serum: A delightful, generously bottled collection of soothing oils for the face. While the product doesn’t reduce my lines, it is supremely luxurious, smells like heaven, and gives me a luscious glow. Use sparingly. (It really should come with a dropper, I think. Most folks are heavy handed when given the chance, and too much of this one could cause issues for acne prone people). Otherwise, divine.

Frownies: An old “Hollywood Secret”. These things work. They’re weird, but they’re natural and they work. Essentially, Frownies are little bits of stiff paper. Before you sleep, you moisten the backs (if you lick them, they taste like the paste of your childhood. I’m told.) and you stick them to various spots on your face. If you want to be rid of frown lines, there’s Frownies for the forehead. There are laugh line Frownies, and Frownies for the deep lines around the mouth. I like to call these lines parenthesis (since I clearly like parenthesis and the word Marionette gives me the creeps.) Frownies have been used for ages, and several celebrities swear by them. The way they work is simple. Once they’re attached to your face, they prevent you from making the crazy faces you inevitably make in your sleep. (That’s 8 hours of frowning and smiling that happen when you’re not even trying). Once you stop making these faces at night, your lines diminish SIGNIFICANTLY. I go through bouts of using Frownies, and every time I use them, I’m always surprised how something so simple works so well. So why, then, would I keep looking for miracle creams? Because I’m lazy. You really do need to use Frownies consistently for at least 3 weeks at a time to experience the results. And it wouldn’t hurt to have a great lifting serum to keep your results longer……by the way, don’t forget to take your Frownies off in the morning, or someone else will remind you to.

I speak from experience.

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Green Eggs and Hair

I’m not the kind of girl who can wash and wear. I’m a mostly natural blonde with fine hair that prefers to be curled (I like to use steam curls–the ions make my hair shiny, the heat doesn’t dry out my ends, and the steam makes the curls last longer). Funny thing about San Francisco–it’s FOGGY and WINDY–two factors that constantly put a damper on my style. As a result, I’m always looking for “The Perfect Hairspray”.

Five years ago I forayed into the world of “natural” hair products, and was mildly appalled at the results. Two that I remember were Aubrey’s Miist, which made me sneeze uncontrollably. Aubrey hair products all have a very distinctive scent (is it the nettle?) that lasts and lasts. I could smell it on my hair all day, to the point of distraction, and considering that it’s not a particularly pleasant scent, even if the product worked spendidly (which it didn’t), I couldn’t consider using it.

Another one I tried was Giovanni’s Organics Hairspray. Though sold in most natural food stores it was not (and to this day is not) a clean product, (chock full of pvp’s and other unsundries) and it still didn’t manage to hold my hair–instead, it lied heavily upon my carefully placed curls and actually made them limp! That was as experimental as I got with green hair products. I would not use them in a box, I would not use them on a fox. After two weeks of bad hair, I decided to give up the green hair, and go mainstream.

I quickly found hair heaven with “Freeze It”, John Frieda’s “Blonde”, and Frederick Fekkai’s “Sheer Hold”. Nevermind that they’re all aerosol and full of chemicals I wouldn’t wish on my worst enemy…they work.

But five years of great chemically-bound hair later, and now I’m the Green Makeup Artist. And it just won’t cut the mustard to use mainstream hair products while touting the importance of clean ingredients. So I’m back to the trial and error (emphasis on error) that is Green Hair. I know my green brides will thank me. At least, I hope so.

Here’s what I’ve hated so far:

Giovanni’s Organics L.A. Hold Hairspray: I decided to try Giovanni’s hairspray again. (I figured five years was long enough to work out the kinks. Apparently not. I’m waiting for “San Francisco Hold” to come out.)

Aubrey’s Miist: Okay, I didn’t actually try it again, but I smelled it and promptly began to sneeze. Why won’t they make something inoffensive?

Jason’s Finishing Spray: (with Aloe & Bergamot) It’s paraben free and non aerosol, but contains acrylates, copolymers and alcohol, which many folks don’t love. Did it work? Yes. Minimally. It sort of stiffened the hair, and held it somewhat in place without having any extra perks. (I compare everything to my mainstream favorites). The thing I really didn’t like was the smell which NEVER WENT AWAY. Since high school, I’ve not been a fan of hair that smells strongly of anything. (Remember Aussie products? The hairspray and scrunch spray smelled of green apples, and at an all girls school, I recall swimming in the scent of apples all day.) Hair should be seen and not smelled. Especially if it smells like Bergamot. Each time I used it, I couldn’t wait to shower it off again.

Jason’s Thin to Thick Hairspray with Biotin: Why did I try another Jason product? I’m a sucker for packaging. I want to have thick hair. I like the idea of biotin. Result? Within 30 seconds, I looked like I’d been caught in a thunderstorm. My steam curls went completely flat. This is NOT A HAIRSPRAY!! Granted, it is a product that you can spray on your hair, but why would you want to? I’m writing this in a cafe, and I wish I’d brought a hat.

So that’s the search so far. Not only am I bothered by the current state of my hair, but I’m also troubled by the lack of truly green hair products on the market. Alba Organics, Avalon Organics, and a few others have staked out shelf space in the natural aisles of my local market. On first glance, one might get the impression that I’m being a sissy. There seems to be plenty to choose from, right? I encourage you to take a product off the shelf and read the label. Does it contain the very ingredients (in however small a quantity) that you’re hoping to avoid by not buying the stuff you’ve been using for years? If so, why bother? For the glamour of the word “organic” or “all-natural” or “pure”? What is the advantage of using a pure petrochemical?

If you will not use them on your face, should you use them anyplace?

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