I’ve been waiting for the EcoTools cosmetic bags to come out FOR-EVER.  As you know, I’m a keen fan of the brand as it is.  The brushes are made from sustainable bamboo, with recycled aluminum ferrules, and non-animal hair (Good for all the animal lovers on your holiday list).  Plus, as makeup tools, they WORK, they’re super inexpensive and easy to find (Target and Walgreens).

AND NOW…Alicia Silverstone (a famously gorgeous and green vegan who also has a book out now called The Kind Diet–she’s not clueless at all), has teamed up with Ecotools to give the brand a little pizazz, as well as some fantastic new cosmetic bags made from HEMP.  I love hemp. It’s a seriously sustainable fabric, and durable, to boot.  Ecotools has several sizes to choose from, (a purse size, a “back of the toilet” size, and an overnight/vacation size), AND they cost a lot less than the fabulously green makeup you’ll be putting in them!

My favorite feature (other than the material) is the inside pockets: The Overnight Bag has 2 large clear REMOVABLE zippy compartments that velcro in and out–great for when you’ve got powder all over and need to run it under the tap, plus one huge clear zippy compartment.  It’s great to be able to see everything you have.  And the back of the toilet bag (let’s be honest, that’s where we all keep it) is actually called “The Train Case”, and has a REMOVABLE zippy compartment built right into the LID!  Nice surprise.  You can keep eyeliners and lip pencils and other items that always seem to escape you when you’re rooting around at 6am.

Finally, EcoTools gets another big fat nod from The Green Makeup Artist because not only are the bags made of hemp, but the lining is made with recycled plastic, the flowers are printed with non-toxic ink, and even the tags are eco friendly…get this–they’re made from stone paper!

Yeah, I didn’t know what stone paper was either–I’m google guilty!  Turns out, it’s 80% calcium carbonate (like limestone), and 20% non-toxic resin.  Stone paper uses no water or chemicals in manufacturing, the product is stronger than paper, smooth, and leaves HALF the carbon footprint that recycled paper does! The last time I got this excited about tree-less paper, it was made from Elephant poop (Seriously, poop paper.  It’s a thing.  Doesn’t smell, and feels nice.  Who doesn’t want a poop paper sketchbook?  Hint, hint.)

Back to the hempsters–My biggest recommendation for you greenies this holiday season is this: if you don’t ALREADY have fabulous makeup brushes (remember, being green isn’t about throwing perfectly fine things away), then buy yourself the new five piece set that EcoTools put out with Alicia Silverstone: It’s got a new brush– “The Finishing Brush” that you’ll recognize as an eco-friendly version of  a famous department store brand brush, an angled eyeshadow brush, a blush brush, and lash/brow groomer. (I usually take the brow brush out and replace the holder with an eyeliner brush, contour or lip brush since my brows are already wimpy and huddled in a corner on my face).  The brush bag zips around, matches all the other bags, and has an inside clear pocket to stuff a few extra brushes into.

Gift giving idea: For your girlfriend/mother/sister who’s NOT green– The EcoTools Limited Edition Brush Set, with a green lipgloss or blush (100% Pure makes really clean ones) tucked inside! A stylish and thoughtful present, which is bound to get them thinking, too….

Here’s the price rundown: 5 piece brush set & bag is $16, Train case is $15, Overnight Bag is $20.

Hempy Holidays!!

I can’t stay away from Sephora.  It used to be difficult, being a green makeup artist, walking into Sephora and wading through pretty products with toxic ingredient labels.  But things are changing:  a line you didn’t like last year might just be unrecognizable today. Of course, there’s also something so satisfying about being left alone to PLAY in an entire store full of makeup.  To test the density of eyeshadow color, to feel a foundation’s  slip and texture…to SMELL the lipglosses.

Unlike buying  makeup from a department store, (where you’re stuck with it as soon as you use it)  Sephora’s generous return policy allows shoppers to relax about makeup.   So, with a relaxed frame of mind I recently waltzed down the Tarte aisle and was struck to see Sephora’s  green leaf   “Naturally Sephora” label hanging over the entire brand.  I’d previously tried only three of Tarte’s products, all from the “Health Couture” line: Lash Hugger Eco Mascara, Glam Gams, and Eco Cheek stain.   The rest of their products were heavily tainted with petrochemicals, parabens, and other less than sundry fillers (In fact, the Tarte brand scored a whopping 7-8 rating on the Skin Deep toxicity database)….and then suddenly……

A big green sign. What gives?  My heart pounded.  Could it be?

“Yes,” she said.   A rep for Tarte happened to be in the store and was as excited about the change as I was.  “The formulations changed at the beginning of the year, but we couldn’t advertise it until about a month ago—after we changed the packaging with the old ingredients list.”   She told me that Tarte’s products are now ALL paraben free, with many products free of dyes, fragrances, petrochemicals and phthalates as well.

I think my hands were shaking a little as I approached Tarte’s Natural Beauty 7 Piece Combination Set in FAIR (they had me at FAIR!)

It includes the new Age-Rewind tinted moisturizer (spf 15),  with a Foundation Brush, Pressed Powder, Pressed Bronzer, Concealer Wand, and Face Primer.  The seventh piece is the see-through recyclable zippered pouch everything fits into.

I read the ingredients a few times.  I wouldn’t eat the stuff, and you know my feelings about makeup.  I like to be able to eat it.  But it is FAR and AWAY cleaner than most cosmetic products on the market, and a VASTLY cleaner line than it used to be.   And I think that’s worth celebrating.

And yes, it all WORKS really well, too.  The Age-Rewind glows on the skin, feels silky smooth, and provides more coverage than any other tinted moisturizer I’ve tried, ever.   Comes in shades from Fair to Deep.   Blends easily, feels light, and pumps from the airless container.   Foundation brush is a nice touch.  The primer is professional quality: it actually feels like a slippery silicone base, and keeps your makeup in place all day.  (I still prefer aloe based primers,  but this one works really well).  The concealer wand is great for touchups , but it’s lightweight.  (Tarte’s got a great new pot concealer, though, that has fantastic density).  The powder and bronzer are small, but separate (important) and potent.  A little dab’ll do ya.  The bronzer’s not orangey, either, but it is highly pigmented, so use a light hand.

The new Tarte also has a “clean” waterproof mascara, called “Lights, Camera, Splashes” which I’m eager to try out on a few sobbing brides.   (Until now, clean waterproof mascara was an oxymoron!)

While I was there, I picked up the limited edition REFILLABLE Tarte eyeshadow palette called Femme Fatale.  The colors are dense and blendable and the palette comes with a two ended eyeliner as well as a nice double ended application brush.  Several shadows can also be used as eyeliners (with a small wet brush) or can be dampened for a fabulously bold effect.  I was surprised at how much I missed pressed shadows (I have a large green kit full of loose ones in every color); I vow to use this palette til it’s gone!  I love the refillable aspect, too–you can choose your own colors!

As usual, my enthusiasm comes with a grain or two of salt.  You STILL have to read the label, girls. There’s no getting around it.  Tarte has really cleaned up its act, but there a few products I just can’t get behind (for example, the Celebutante Dry Oil Shimmer Spray, which still contains BHT, a fragrance/masking ingredient used as a substitute for toluene.  BHT gets a 7-9 on SkinDeep.  Such a shame.  A fabulously delicious smelling product with avocado oil and gold shimmer.  Were it clean, I’d coat my body in it everyday of my life—alas).   So yes, Tarte is well on its way to being green, but tread carefully, friends.

Why do I bother reviewing anything that I wouldn’t eat?  Because, like you, I want to know what’s OUT THERE.  I want to know who’s trying to move in a greener direction, and how their products stack up. Perhaps you’re the kind of woman who can stick to a clean (organic, even) purely mineral line like Larenim or AfterGlow, and be a happy, healthy camper from there on out.  But there are some women who simply WON’T put up with powder all over their bathroom sinks, or whose complexions will not tolerate a plethora of powder.  I keep my eyes peeled for options.

Some people (like me) won’t be happy unless a cosmetic product is food safe.  Others just want something paraben-free.   It’s up to each of us to decide where to draw the line—we are all different shades of green.

Here are the specs provided by Sephora on the $54  Tarte Natural Beauty Combo Set

This set contains:
- 1.16 oz Clean Slate T5™ Infused Natural Primer
- 1 oz ReCreate™ Natural Anti-Aging Foundation with Wrinkle Rewind™ Technology in Warm Bisque
- 0.19 oz The Eraser 4-in1 Natural Concealer in Bisque
- 0.15 oz Provocateur Pressed Mineral Powder in Light
- 0.15 oz Mineral Powder Bronzer in Park Avenue Princess
- Travel Foundation Brush
- Reusable 7 Recyclable Makeup Bag

What it is formulated WITHOUT:
- Parabens (all)
- Preservatives (Primer)
- Propylene Glycol (Primer, Concealer, Powder, Bronzer)
- Petrochemicals (Primer, Concealer, Foundation, Powder)
- Phthalates (Primer, Concealer, Foundation, Bronzer)
- Sulfates (all)
- GMOs (Primer, Concealer, Powder, Bronzer)
- Triclosans (Primer, Concealer, Powder, Bronzer)

What else you need to know:
All products are free of fragrance, talc, MEA, DEA, TEA, and animal testing.

Here’s what Tarte Founder Maureen Kelly says about the brand now on their website:

Nine years later tarte is the leader in earth engineered™ beauty offering the widest selection of natural cosmetics full of skinvigorating™ ingredients including our proprietary t5 super fruit complex™ (a blend of the five most active, free-radical fighting super fruits), vitamins, minerals and natural fruit and plant extracts. But it’s not just about what’s in our healthy formulas; it’s what’s not in them that really sets us apart! We are 100% free of parabens, petro-chemicals, phthalates, sulfates and synthetic fragrances, just to name a few.

We don’t just stop at the formulas – our chic, runway-inspired cases and compacts are more then just pretty packaging. We’re helping reduce green house gas emissions one mascara at a time by creating components that are made from recyclable or post-consumer recycled material and can often be re-used to help reduce environmental waste. We like to say we’re doing the ‘leg work’ to help all of us minimize our carbon footprints.

Chameleon photo by Flickrs Kaibara87

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Some months back, I mentioned I was green mattress hunting; I promised to keep you updated on the results of the organic wool and natural latex sleeping experiment.  Well, its been three months since I’ve written anything.  I’ve been catching up on my sleep.

I’ve slept on a variety of surfaces in my lifetime:  inner-spring mattress, American futon, Swiss futon, Japanese futon, straw, and, of course, the floor.  I’ve slept as high as three mattresses stacked, and as low as the hardwood itself.  I’ve also slept on a number of mattress toppers: “egg crate” foam, memory foam, cotton, down, and poly-fill.

I am a three-way sleeper.  I change sleep positions from back to side to stomach all in one night.  I have back problems, like so many of you, and insomnia.  I know good sleep when I get it, which is rare.

In the three months I’ve been sleeping  on the new pesticide, flame retardant, and chemical free natural latex mattress (with three layers of firmness ranging from firm to soft), and the organic wool topper (meant to add extra padding, as well as regulate temperature in both summer and winter), in addition to super soft organic sheets (I couldn’t put  pesticide-heavy cotton sheets on the new combo) I have experienced many, many more good nights than not.

The mattress seems to support my weight evenly, and imparts the feeling of being “lifted”, somehow.  Yes, it’s a bit like sleeping on a cloud, I’ll admit to the cliche.  I don’t wake up hot in the middle of the night anymore, and when I move…..no one else does.  HUGE improvement.  I went with the natural latex over a memory foam mattress because I wanted feel like I was lying ON the bed, rather than IN it (and the natural latex has the added benefit of having no added flame retardants or added chemicals).  With the level of flame retardants already in the average Californian’s blood stream, I should already be fireproof.   I can’t imagine the desire to wallow in even more chemicals. For info, check out this link to the issue of  California citizens and flame retardants: http://www.consumercal.org/article.php?id=1016

I would love to do a comparative sleep study of both memory foam and latex one day (maybe when this bed wears out), but I am thrilled to have a clean, green, serene place to rest my head for the next 20 years!

Our mattress comes from Savvy Rest Organic Mattresses, and is made from Dunlop natural latex.  Savvy Rest received the National Geographic “Greenest” award, and their website is  full of interesting info– I never knew how rubber was harvested before visiting them. http://www.savvyrest.com

One note of caution:  This is an EXPENSIVE item.  It’s not more than other specialty mattresses, but it is probably more than you’ve ever considered spending on something you enjoy while unconscious.  This is why I encourage ALL of you to do some research of your own when looking for a green mattress.  Perhaps your needs can be met by buying a simple organic cotton spring mattress, or an organic futon; there’s even a company that makes a mattress out of cherry pits!

For Bay Area readers who want to support their local merchants, I REALLY love “A Happy Planet” in San Francisco; it’s an indie store that carries everything you need for a green night’s sleep, from organic mattresses right down to organic wool, kapok, buckwheat, and natural latex pillows.  They even carry sheets and comforters; from them you’ll get an education and a warm smile.  If you’ve spent a lifetime sleeping on down or chemically laden down alternatives–shredded natural latex pillows are a GREAT choice, and rather than smelling “fowl”, they smell a bit like pancake batter.  In a good way. http://www.ahappyplanet.com

Going green is so easy,

you can even do it in your sleep….

Top photo from Flickr’s Wiros, “Sleeping Beauty”

Once upon a time I dreamed I got a good night’s sleep.  It has finally occurred to me that I probably dreamed of a GREEN night’s sleep.

I’m mattress shopping, a task as important as husband shopping, and as critical for healthy relationships as it is for healthy complexions.  After much searching, I think I’ve found my Prince Charming: all natural latex with a wool topper.  I’m going with a rubber bed because I want that sproing-y feeling without the dust mite poop that winds up in spring coil mattresses (organic or not).  Dust mites and other wicked hangers on can’t live in natural latex, and unlike memory foam mattresses (chemical laden), natural latex is more like walking on rubber flip flops than in Birkenstocks (one bounces back, one molds to your shape).  My unconcious mind likes a little give.  I’m finalizing my decisions on  brand and purveyor, and I wanted to give you all a teaser.  Once I get it home and give it a couple weeks of careful scientific testing (including before and after photos of the circles under my eyes), I’m going to give you the full story.  Like, do you know Californians have more flame retardants in their blood than anyone else in the world?! Good news if you’re worried about spontaneous combustion, not so good if you want to live like a healthy spitfire.

Cloud photo courtesy of Flickr’s Catounetta

It’s 9am.  It’s the end of June, and it’s 65 degrees.  Did I happen to mention this is San Francisco?  It’s not SUPPOSED to be warm in June!  I’m supposed to be wearing a scarf and mittens right now!  Mark Twain once mused, “The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco.”

Putting bothersome global warming issues aside for a moment, let’s talk about the real reason I’m taking notice.  Sweat.  Two years ago I made the decision to give up my paraben laden, aluminum based deodorant.  I had used the same brand for about 20 years.  Wow.  That’s product commitment.  It’s also an incredible amount of toxic buildup: a chemical compound  applied daily and directly to the skin, in the area of the lymph nodes– skin that sweats, opening its pores like a welcome party for increased risks of breast cancer and Alzheimer’s disease.  Oh dear.

It was time to shut that party down.  While I had tried natural deodorants in the past, I always placed my good sense of smell above my good sense, and found each natural deodorant lacking in protection.  But my concerns about parabens  grew greater when a dear friend was diagnosed with breast cancer.  So, two years ago, I decided to give it another go.

After 6 months of natural deodorant trials, I could find NOTHING clean that worked consistently for me.  It’s not as though it’s 100 degrees in San Francisco; I don’t sweat heavily, nor is my sweat particularly pungent.  I had tried at least 12 different natural deodorants, and finally, I simply gave up.  I bought a mainstream deodorant containing aluminum and all sorts of harmful ingredients but which DIDN’T have parabens.  It worked.

I’ve gone along, stink-free for a year and a half, occasionally complaining about the deodorant market, but unwilling to go through another trial.  So what that I’d eventually lose my memory and then my mind?  At least I smelled nice.

But then it happened.  I got a tip.  “The Healthy Deodorant” by Lavanila, (found at Sephora) is aluminum free, paraben free, and “100% natural”.   But does it work?  I’m here to tell you– indeed it does.

The scent is vanilla lavender, but frankly it smells a bit sporty.  Which is fine.  I’ll pretend to be an athlete.  What I love is the silky/creamy texture of the solid stick, the fact that it’s nice and clean, lasts all day, and WORKS.

Yes, it will leave a small white mark on your black t-shirt.  We’ve handled that before.  It’s fine.  What you need to know:  If you go for a run (why are you running in the heat when you could be strolling?) you will probably want to freshen up before going out to dinner.  It’s strong, but not THAT strong.  It’s strong enough that you don’t have to worry when you’re riding the city bus and it’s packed.  It’s strong enough that you can sit at the beach and smell only salt water in the air.  It’s strong enough for me.

Here’s the list of ingredients-notice there are no petrochemicals, phthalates, propylene glycol, mineral oils, silicone, synthetic dyes, sulfates, aluminum or parabens.

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (Aloe Juice, Water), Propanediol (Corn Derived), Zea Mays (Corn) Starch, Sodium Stearate (Coconut Derived), Silica, Carrageenan (Seaweed Derived), Stearyl Behenate (Coconut Derived), Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon Peel Oil), Inulin (Artichoke Derived), Saccharomyces Ferment, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide (Sugar Derived), Yeast Beta Glucan, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract, Valeriana Officinalis Root Extract (Valerian), Hydrastis Canadensis (Goldenseal) Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract (Goji Berry), Botanical Fragrance Blend.

Photo courtesy of Flickr’s Nikita Hengbok

Ah, the Mean Reds.  Holly Golightly wasn’t talking about rosacea, but she might as well have been.  Women who suffer from this patchy, flaky, highly sensitive, and unflatteringly rosy condition are perpetually unhappy with the appearance of their skin and have frequently given up hope.

Rosacea is a dastardly villain, and once afflicted, a woman can no longer apply her makeup as whimsically as the rest of society might. Foundation will often seep into enlarged pores while refusing to lay smoothly on the surface skin;  this can produce an odd effect: dozens of visible pinpoints of foundation interrupted by islands of scaly red skin.  And heaven forbid you wear a blush on top!  EEEEEEK!

What to do, WHAT TO DO??  If you suffer from rosacea yourself, you have undoubtedly sought the help of a dermatologist, and may already be doing something topically to treat the condition.

But what if you’re still red all over?

Close your eyes and say “Hocus Pocus”.

While you’re doing that, I’ll tell you a story.  I had a client recently with a FABULOUS face; sparkling green eyes, cheekbones to die for, and a mouth so large that I could count all her perfect teeth when she spoke. (She’s a professional singer, so she’s lucky).  Big lips, long lashes.  Great brows.  Fabulous face, yes.  Fabulous skin….not so much.

The poor darling had a serious case of rosacea, bless her heart!  Her usual routine is a smattering of powder across her face, lipgloss and masacara–she’s a 30 second makeup girl.  Unfortunately, the powder she was using was orange–and while she was sure that it was counteracting the red on her face, I was pretty sure it was just orange.  We had a tussle.  Hair was pulled.  Makeup was thrown.  Suddenly, a green cloud of dust rose up from my kit and settled upon her face.

Hocus Pocus. It’s a mineral based powder by Larenim (mineral spelled backwards) that is ACTUALLY GREEN.  Now have we all studied our color theory, girls?  What’s the opposite of red?  Is it orange?  Blue?  Purple?  Very good.  It’s green.  A fine dusting of light green powder across red skin works miracles.

We experimented a bit, and found the best makeup scenario for her to be this one:

1. Apply a thin layer of aloe vera (or an aloe based makeup primer such as Mod’s) to the face.  Pure aloe is soothing, won’t clog your pores, and dries down to provide a barrier between makeup and your skin.  If you use liquid foundation and have rosacea and/or large pores, you must use a primer.

2. Using a soft brush, lightly dust Hocus Pocus over the red portions of the face only.  You may use a concealer brush dipped in Hocus Pocus for red blemishes, as well.  Hint: if your face is still damp from moisturizer or aloe, let it dry first! (Otherwise too much green is absorbed.  Hello, Wicked Witch!)

Note: We were both satisfied with the eveness of the skin at this point; she could have skipped foundation and gone straight to gloss and mascara, but she was having photos taken, so we went for flawless skin.

3.  Use your loose/pressed powder or pressed foundation (Larenim and ZuZu have nice ones) and pat over face gently, don’t “smear” the spell.  And don’t forget undereye concealer!

4.  Finally, a little bronzer will warm up the skin.  You may think about blush.   Wait first.  Putter about the house for a bit.  See how long it takes for your skin to begin acting like the lunatic it is.  Seeing hints of pink after an hour?  You should probably skip blush altogether.

Now, I’m not usually a powder, powder everywhere kind of girl.  I like to hand mix mineral foundations with organic face creams or balm sticks to match my clients skin, and to leave a bit of a glow when possible.  AND I don’t like the look of packed-on powder that results from using certain lines.  That said, some skin prefers NOT to glow.

Some skin hates anything with oil (no matter how natural), and is quick to anger, so it’s best to be reasonable and do our best to keep it calm and soothed.   Aloe vera is great for this combustable fiend.  Consider using it everytime you use makeup.  And Hocus Pocus is makeup witchery at its best.  Other than that, ladies, watch the alcohol intake, which can set off a flushing of rosacea (I’m not saying ‘don’t drink’–I’m merely saying ‘observe the effects of your drinking’), the same goes for spicy foods and spicy men.

The Mean Reds may be with you for a while.  Some experts claim rosacea is genetic (having to do with the “Celtic Curse”), some say it’s bacterial, some say it’s dietary, and some are simply clueless.  We do know that it affects three times as many women as men, and that the years between 30-60 are fun times for the Mean Reds to develop.  The ensuing flakiness is certainly annoying, but (contrary to popular thought) your skin can be GENTLY sloughed, depending on your sensitivity, which will make your skin feel better to the touch. Yes, you may be a tad red after a gentle scrub, but what’s new?

As for the color of the Mean Reds?  Say a little spell, and watch them disappear!  Hang in there, girls.  We’re pulling for you!

I really like fashion magazines.  There is a kind of art appreciation that happens while grazing through the seasonal spreads.  There’s often a story being told: Young, lithe girl finds herself in a dark forest in the middle of summer, wearing a bizarre conglomeration of haute couture and accessories au naturelle.  In this context, her bird’s nest bra looks….not out of place.

Fashion magazines are one part fantasy, one part delicacy, and ninety eight parts currency. They are not here for our aesthetic edification.  They exist soley to make consumers out of us, which is why I think it’s nice to view them exclusively in artistic terms, to appreciate the inspiration and vision that goes into the few extravagent vignettes tucked between the copious and predictably pandering advertisements.

Once in a while, I’ll read the copy, too, just for kicks.

The May 2009 issue of Elle magazine features “Face of Cover Girl” Drew Barrymore, and is calling itself the “Blue Issue” with a focus on designer eco-chic.   Intrigued, I dove in and was shocked to find a several page spread on green cosmetics!  Apparently, a large panel of makeup artists was chosen to vote on green picks, and the spread features the winners.

I had a mixed reaction: I was unsurprised by some of the winners (Physcian’s Formula Organic Wear for mascara and bronzer–two of their products which I’ve blogged about myself), and surprised to NOT see some of the greatest green lines on the market.  Dr. Hauschka, for example, was represented only by their clay mask, and 100% Pure (the cleanest line ever invented) was missing? Instead, there were several “winners” that I thought were “losers”.  I was glad to see the magazine devote pages of precious ad space to the concept of clean makeup, but that’s all it was: AD SPACE.

I thought about the magazine on and off all day.  I realize that a magazine’s first obligation is to advertising, not content.  (A number of “winners” had coincidentally rolled out large ad campaigns in recent months, including Physician’s Formula) While a concerted effort went into featuring lines which are branded as green, I doubt anyone went a step beyond–and say, looked at ingredients. (The green pick for tinted moisturizer was Josie Maran’s, which features a slew of questionable ingredients, including BHT, which pulls off a whopping 7 out of 9 offense on the Cosmetic Safety Database.  BHT is just another nasty substitute for toulene…ewww.)

That said, I noticed a few new “green” products which bear investigation.  The moral?  You have to find your OWN winners.  Never trust glossy pages with your health.  It’s not what they’re there for, and it’s certainly not what they’re good at.  They’re good at making you look, and making you buy.  If you don’t believe me, I’ve got a bird’s nest bra I’d be happy to sell you.

Check out Elle’s Blue Issue, and make up your own mind.  The underwater images are gorgeous, even if the Cover Girl isn’t green.

Images courtesy of Flickr’s Vichysoisse of Verbiage and Elle Magazine

I have a secret, and I’m going to share it.  I have found a holy grail among “natural” undereye concelears.

I’m going to preface my disclosure with another disclosure:  my current favorite undereye concealer is not as clean as the company would have you believe (their slogan is “Clean-Natural-Beauty”)

I’m also going to rationalize my use of this product by confessing that I suffer from extraordinarily dark undereye circles: I’m an insomniac, my diet suffers the perils of bad timing and low blood sugar, and hey– dark circles are largely heritary and hormonal, anyway.  (Let’s blame science!)

I’ve tried everything out there, and if it’s clean and green, I’ve tried it twice.   I really DO love 100% Pure’s peach pigmented natural wand concealer (not available on their website, but on QVC):  I like the consistency of the product, ease of use, and edible ingredients. I carry it in my purse for touchups (a surprise blemish, a fixer for smeared mascara, etc).  But (for me) it’s simply not dense enough to battle the darkness that lies beneath…

To really achieve a flawless looking undereye–and by that I mean this: when the skin beneath the eye matches the skin above the eye (brow bone)–I prefer a two step product.   One pinky/peach step, and one yellow step.  Most makeup artists agree.  The pink cancels out the greenish or bluish aspects of your circles, and the yellow step warms the skin up, and brightens the undereye.  Combined, they are magical.

I found my new concealer a few months ago, while perusing the cosmetics section at Whole Foods.  A nice counter person asked if I needed help.  I told her I was deciding between the clean stick concealers of Gabriel or MyChelle.  She said, “You know, my favorite is Mineral Fusion.  It’s really thick.”

Now, some people don’t want to hear the word “thick” when it comes to makeup.  Some of you naturalists are no doubt wrinkling your noses at the prospect of smearing a heavy concealer anywhere but over a hole in your living room wall.   But to me, it was like hearing, “Circles, what circles?”

What raised a flag for me, (and the reason I have not written about this product sooner) is the company itself, Mineral Fusion.  A company backed by Whole Foods (who often sport an enormous display of the line, next to a teeny tiny display for the completely clean makeup line by Dr. Hauschka) Mineral Fusion is NOT  the poster child for organic, green makeup.

The lipglosses contain petrochemicals (polyethylene being the worst offender, scoring a 6-9 on Skin Deep’s toxicity guide: polyethylene is determined by the  “safe” for use on skin by the CIR, assuming a low skin absorbtion rate (despite studies that show tumors developing on the areas of application by both American and British medical journals), we STILL KNOW that everything on our lips we eat….that’s major absorption!  I’m going to say that WEARING Mineral Fusion’s lipgloss on your LIPS means you’re EATING polyethylene, a little, everyday.  Maybe it’s meant to be worn on the earlobes, instead.

And while Mineral Fusion products are paraben-free, who cares, if we’re going to be ingesting disgusting ingredients? (By the way, the company is a proud donor to the Pink United Breast Cancer Research Foundation)  So when the gentle counter person said “Mineral Fusion!”, I understandably hesitated.

Then I tried the creamy concealer duo in “cool”.  ACK!  It works like nothing else.

I asked to read the ingredients.  Argh.  Number seven (out of nineteen ingredients).  You guessed it.  Polyethylene.

WHY?? Why do they do it?  Is it possible that polyethylene is sooooo important that they can’t make a fantastic product without it?  Clearly, there are 18 other ingredients that make this product work.  Can’t we just leave that one out?  Or is it possible that they’re in cohoots with the polyethylene producers? Is this some kind of flouride rehash, waiting to be exposed?

I was miserable.  And yet, I had never looked so happy, nor so well rested.   I held a magnifying mirror up to my face, and even under the hideous glare of energy saving flourescent lighting, I was magnificent.  A flawed flawlessness.

I didn’t buy it.  I bought the heartily clean MyChelle concealer stick instead, which I wore dutifully for a week.  It’s fine, but it’s no match against the dark void which exists beneath my eyes.  I went back to my 100% Pure, sniffling with resentment and heartache (nothing was good enough anymore).  Then I stopped wearing concealer altogether.

That’s right.  The girl whose mantra has always been “Concealer makes you look happy” was willingly going about looking like a sucidal heroin addict.  Finally, seeing my sad circles in the mirror day after day caught up with me, and I genuinely began to feel sad.

So I bought it.  I’ve been wearing Mineral Fusion’s concealer duo for two weeks.  I look like a new person.  I look younger, happier, healthier.   Ironic, isn’t it?

How does this all relate to my previous blog about “being Beautiful” (capital B) and “acting Beautifully”?  I’m not sure.  There’s a balance to be struck, I suppose, between finding the products that make us feel beautiful, and finding companies who are willing to act beautifully, themselves.

I have conceded this round to Big Industry, but as soon as someone develops the same product without using polyethylene, I will drop Mineral Fusion like a bad habit.  Which is, for now, what it is.

eyepatch image courtesy of Flickr’s  eye-patch

I wrote some months ago about the seeming demise of the Physician’s Formula new makeup line called Organc Wear. After watching the ad campaign “How Green is Your Makeup?” unfold in magazines everywhere, I had eagerly anticipated its arrival in my local Walgreens, and was surprised how quickly the line fizzled, and was pulled, due to “lack of interest”.

Now, I’ll admit, I wasn’t thrilled with the orangey, loose powder bronzers, and I was disappointed that even the lightest tinted moisturizer didn’t match my skin. But guess what, kids?

They’re back, and they’re better. Organic Wear, a green makeup line by Physician’s Formula, is reentering the market place with better product and a price point that leaves plenty of green in your wallet.

The line now features a black mascara (with adorable and recycled packaging) that I’ve worn for two weeks. It’s a solid performer, a workhorse, that can withstand two coats without clumping.

They have three pressed eyeshadow duos, also in recycled (pressed paper) packaging. I like the brown/champagne duo for blue eyes.

They also……drumroll, please…..feature a tinted moisturizer with spf 15 for people with IVORY TO FAIR skin!  (previously the lightest shade was Fair to Light) Well, folks, this is a revelation. A premade tinted moisturizer for the truly fair skinned girl. It’s the only one I’ve found so far that really is what it says it is, and I try ALOT of tinted moisturizers. I’ll be equally thrilled when they come out with one for darker tones, but for now I’ll embrace the fact that the green line didn’t get swept under the carpet simply because it didn’t have a succesfful first launch.

The company clearly went back to the drawing board and figured out what was keeping them from performing.

EVERY green makeup line needs a mascara. EVERY green makeup line needs pressed eyeshadows and bronzers.

And now you can buy a great line of green makeup brushes (ECO TOOLS) as well as green makeup (Physician’s Formula Organic Wear) in your local drugstore (or Target). You don’t have to be rich to buy organic. You don’t have to be privledged in order to dodge dodgy ingredients. You just have to be willing to try.

And try again. I’m glad I did.

As Spring quietly approaches  in warm midmornings between rain showers and cool gusts of wind, I am made aware of texture.  Each early blossom that lifts off a tree reminds me that Springtime is the right time to tighten and brighten, to smooth and perk and prepare to be happier than I’ve ever been.

Spring is the ultimate season of happiness, creativity, and love.  Spring makes your heart and soul glow. Shouldn’t your face glow, too?

Your heavy, winter weather moisturizer is ready to take a break (unless you live in one of those states that is covered in sheets of ice until June).  As the weather warms, your moisturizer should feel lighter.  If your face sweats after applying your regular moisturizer in morning or night, you know its time for a change.

My spring favorite is AHA’s 10% alpha hydroxy moisturizer.  Not only is this product clean as a whistle, it’s light, and it sloughs off (rather the fruit acids peel away) old, dead skin overnight, leaving your face bare but for a gorgeous glow.

The AHA line (by company Nonie of Beverly Hills) is a great little group of products available at your health food store, and another bonus: They come in GLASS bottles!!

A little goes a long way with AHA, the price point is comparable with other natural lines (my bottle of moisturizer was around $25), and you FEEL the product working.  Best of all, my skin is extremely smooth, without having used a facial scrub in two weeks.

Here’s a note: When you use products with alpha hydroxy, your fresh, baby like skin will be vulnerable to sun damage– exactly what we’re trying to defy, right?  So MAKE SURE you use a tinted moisturizer or foundation with spf during the day.

If it’s your first time trying the tingling newness that alpha hydroxy acid imparts, start with a 5% product (AHA offers one), and use only in the evenings.  I’m an old hand at it, though, and adore the little champagne bubbles-on-skin feeling just before retiring, and look forward to it when I wake up.

Additional note: WASH your face when you wake, and wash away the dead skin from the previous night BEFORE reapplying the moisturizer to enjoy its full benefits!

AHA is safe to use under the eyes, as well, and I’m experimenting for the first time NOT using a separate eye cream.  (I’ll get back to you on the efficacy of this idea, although the line does offer an eye cream, as well)

Here are the ingredients for the 10% Alpha Hydroxy Moisturizer:

Distilled Water, Coconut Oil, Almond Oil, Wheatgerm Oil, Alpha Hydroxy Acids from Bilberry, Apple, orange, Grape, Lemon, & Grapefruit, Coconut Emulsifier, Orchid Oil, Apple Cider Vinegar, & Oil of the Seed of Grapefruit.

That’s right-orchid oil! Just what a spring face needs: fruit and blossoms.  May your spring be a rejuvenation of all that is beautiful, including yourself!

To read more about the company & its products, visit them at:

nonieofbeverlyhills.com